Thanks for your insights. I chose the photo of the 1770s gown because it was the best and clearest image of an en fourreau back I could find, not because it was a mantua.

I would be very interested in knowing the sources where you got your information. Would you be able to tell me? I would then clarify/edit information on here as necessary. I do wish to be as accurate as I’m able.

One of the most important things I’ve learned from doing this project and my thesis research (and which I am stressing throughout my thesis) is the importance of neither making sweeping generalizations, nor pigeon-holing people and clothing from this period. Terminology was just as inconsistent as it is today, and communication (though far superior to 17th century capabilites) could still be sketchy and ‘broken telephone’-ish. In coming down through the centuries a lot of this information has become confused and even contradictory. It’s very difficult to be conclusive about very much.

Thanks so much for reminding me that I ought to keep going through the info I put on here to ensure that it stays up-to-date with my findings and suppositions!

And while it may not have been unusual for a gown to have multiple stomachers made for it, it certainly is rare for them both to have survived to today. Out of approx 75 dresses I examined last summer, and a few more on other occassions, this was the only example that still had both with it. In fact, it was uncommon for the stomacher to remain with the dress at all.

Just one little note, because it took me years to ferret out the proper info concerning the mantua vs. the robe à l’anglaise. It’s possible the mantua is Italian for manteau (French spelling) both of which came to England, but they were not strictly l’anglaises. Manteaus can have the same en fourreau backs – however, not all manteaus had them (some were cut separately from the bodice as well), and almost every manteau was worn over a massive set of paniers, or at least pocket hoops, both of which define the earlier half of the 18th century. The l’anglaise came out in the 1770’s and were worn with bumpads, rolls, etc, but never paniers or pocket hoops. By the way, I’m assuming you used pocket hoops for this gown?
Though a basic bodice with en fourreau for a manteau and l’anglaise look similar, bear in mind there were an endless variety of manteaus, some with elaborate but complicated little “poufs” in back (one of the harder gowns to master correctly).

FYI, the image of the orange-yellow 1770’s open robe from the V&A is really a polonaise. L’anglaises weren’t made to be worn hitched up with buttons – polonaises were. And it’s not uncommon for gowns to have two stomachers – ladies constantly matched different gowns with different petticoats, stomachers, etc. Just my two cents’ worth.

The closest I ever came to producing a significantly detailed garment was your flowergirl dress but at least I had the good old Singer and did not have to construct it by hand.

I particularly like the rosettes and the pleating on the stomacher and the sleeve fuffles – all that pleating. I am indeed impressed and very proud of you.

Cheers
Stella

However, for the sack and pet en l’air I will be using a scalloped pinker from William Booth, Draper to do the edges of sleeve cuffs and trimmings. From what I’ve seen of originals treated this way, the fraying and tattiness was much less.

http://www.fabrics.net/outlet/Detail.asp?ProductID=1874