A New Page is Finished

The calico jacket and petticoat ensemble page is all up and finished!  Slowly but surely I’m getting through them all.

If you take a look through the page and there is anything that doesn’t make sense, please ask about it and I will answer as best and promptly as I can!


  1. Ruth Said:

    Thank you for writing all this down. I am about to start making an 18th century dress for my final year project at uni and your website is so helpful.

  2. Elena Said:

    not sure if you ever look at this anymore, but i am in the process of sewing wedding costumes based on this time period. I had a question about the hoops you used and would have emailed but you don’t have a contact. (perhaps that’s wise, lol). anyway if you can either email me or answer here that’d be awesome. basically, i want to know whether you ended up making an oval hoop at all and if so where did you find a pattern or did you have to make your own based on museum specimens/drawings/extant examples? thank you!

    • brocadegoddess Said:

      Hi Elena,

      I do still poke my head in here, and am aware that I am grossly overdue in getting pages up for everything. There is to be a page for the hoop petticoat, the shift, and a pocket. I did go with an oval-shaped hoop after all. I reproduced a specimen I examined in Edinbourgh during which I sketched it and took in-depth measurements. Pocket hoops are both much easier to make, and I believe easier to wear, certainly lighter. I believe you can also find patterns for them, as opposed to the oval hoop crinoline style.
      I hope that might help even a little,


      • Elena Said:

        Yes, I have found several patterns (both on line and commercial patterns) for pocket hoops. The oval seems like it would be more comfortable to wear if you’re walking a lot, but perhaps not? Expound on the “easier to wear” part, please. 🙂 Thanks!

  3. María Said:

    Hello! I see your work is amazing. I follow your blog from time to time and want to make a question. I love the edges of some of your gown ruffles like the blue sack dress and I don´t know if you do them with pinking shears or a pinking machine with different blades. I´ve been recently looking for this kind of “scissors” on internet, and I couldn´t find out where to obtain them. Today, I´ve bought a pair of simple zig-zag pinking shears in my own town, but I see this is not going to satisfy me. Would be useful to achieve one of those machines or I can find pinking shears with wave patterns like yours on internet? I must say I live in Spain and theese things aren´t popular at all.
    Thank you for your attention.

    • brocadegoddess Said:

      Hi Maria,

      I actually used a small reproduction pinking tool. It has one repeat of the scalloped/shell pattern with sharpened edges. You strike the other end of the tool with a hammer against the fabric to cut it in the shape. It is quite time-consuming to do one scallop at a time, but once you develop a rhythm it goes quicker. I bought my tool from an online store in the US called Green Man Forge. Here is the link:


      • María Said:

        Hello Elena,

        thank you very much for your help. I encourage you to keep on your project. You´re great!

  4. Genevieve Said:

    Thanks so much for sharing that awesome experience with us.
    You got me the kick I needed to do my 1845 dress replica. Tough I am a bit less crazed (the good way) I plan on making it for my doll. A bjd elfdoll Soah of 60cm. I hope to be able to show something eventually.

    thanks again,

  5. Alison Said:


    I stumbled upon this blog while researching 18th century stays for an Independent Study. I am in awe of your talent and amazing creations! Your blog has inspired me greatly. I even managed to track down a PDF of your thesis and I’ve enjoyed that immensely. Thank you so much for keeping this material available for those of us who have gained from your insights.

  6. Vivian Said:

    thanks for the information. I am making a copy of a mantua dress for a doll. It will be used to enable people with sighr problems to feel what a mantua looks like. We have a few genuine dresses but visitors are not allowed to touch them so said it would be helpful to touch one to see scale of side extension.

    I am modelling it on the Rockingham Mantua and hope to pick up some tips.

    Not the same as a life size one but quite challenging because of its small size..

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